La Taquisa, Hernande’z, and Puerto Vallarta Amigos. Cheap, Delicious, Authentic Mexican Taquerias: Victoria BC

Once upon a time, Victoria diners had only one restaurant, Cafe Mexico, to satisfy their hunger for enchiladas, refried beans, and all things Mexican. While this full-service, sit-down restaurant in Market Square continues to attract diners, many Canadian snowbirds have been spoiled by the cheap and delightful taco stands they have come to enjoy on their trips down south.

Honey and I became regulars at the street carts in Puerto Vallarta last December (mmmm, smoked marlin tacos for $1 each…). And now that Victoria has THREE little Mexican taquerias, we can savour those Latin flavours regularly here at home. The best news is that all three little taco shops are serving tasty, authentic dishes at irresistibly low prices.

LA TAQUISA (http://www.lataquisa.com/) 325 Cook Street, Victoria, BC.

This newcomer on the Victoria scene is quickly establishing an enthusiastic following in Cook Street Village. It’s truly a marvel what high-quality food the owners—the Mexican Martinez sisters and their husbands—are turning out from the tiny La Taquisa taco stand at 325 Cook Street. There is barely room for two to prepare food side-by-side in the little food shack.

When you order the 5 tacos for $10 (vegetarian, chicken, beef, or pork), the cook cranks out your ultra-fresh corn tortillas from a little hand press at the front of the taco stand and slips them right onto the grill. I feasted on two kinds of vegetarian tacos, each generously heaped with filling. The bean-and-cheese tacos with red and green salsas were good; the tacos with roasted poblano pepper and crunchy corn niblets in cream sauce were a revelation! Mama Mexico, these are GOOD! Do the vegetarian happy hat dance! Laaaa laaaa la-la la-la-la la-la-laaaa!

Marinades of chipotle and other spices are used to flavour the meats used in various dishes, all made from family recipes. Honey ordered a small stuffed burrito, which was so generous he couldn’t eat it all; we couldn’t even imagine tackling the large one! We shared a styrofoam cupful of tortilla soup, a rich tomato base made thickly gooey with melted cheese and real tortilla strips. It was bursting with garden-tomato flavour, though was perhaps a bit small for the $5 price.

Apparently, a covered area with space heaters is being installed to serve customers dining at the three food kiosks in this Cook Street nook: La Taquisa, West Coast Waffles, and One Fish Two Fish. This should make for a more comfortable dining experience as the cooler, wetter weather takes hold, as La Taquisa plans to remain open throughout the winter—great news for foodies! Current hours are 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday.

HERNANDE’Z COCINA (www.hernandezcocina.com), 735 Yates, Victoria, BC.

I extolled the virtues of Hernande’z in an earlier article (see that full review here), and since that time, they have expanded their small outlet to both sides of the interior mall “arcade” which connects Yates and View street. This is the only one of the three taco stands featured here that has indoor table seating and a liquor licence; for $5, you can get a bottle of local beer to enjoy with your food.

I had been to Hernande’z three times before I finally branched out to try something other than the scrumptious little palm-sized bean-and-cheese tacos (a super steal at 5 for $5). I opted for the dinner special on my last evening visit, the calabacitas enchiladas ($12.95),  and I enthusiastically recommend this generous platter, which comes with rice, beans, and salad. The smoky chipotle flavour of the tomato salsa over the grilled-vegetable-stuffed enchiladas will bring me back for this dish for again and again.

Owners Tamara and Jerson Hernandez prepare food according to his grandmother’s recipes, and emphasize fresh, local, and organic ingredients. Meats (chicken, beef, and pork) are locally sourced, grain- and grassland fed. The delicious black beans are made with canola oil, not lard. Prices are kept low by eliminating waste and service frills. Most meals are served on sheets of red butcher paper; there is a $1 charge if you want a plate. I personally love the idea that there are no plates and glasses for staff to wash up, and these practical matters don’t affect the pleasure of a meal at Hernande’z one iota.

One of the great things about Hernande’z is how late they stay open. You can dine from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Honey and I love stopping in just before or after a movie.

PUERTO VALLARTA AMIGOS (pvamigos.com), bottom of Yates at Wharf Street, Victoria, BC. Follow them on Twitter.

The friendly Mexican family that runs this little taco truck, parked each weekday at the corner of Yates and Wharf streets, turns out some delicious and very economical meals from their portable cocina. Honey and I recently sampled the vegetarian bean-and-cheese and potato-and-spinach tacos. Puerto Vallarta Amigos also makes a soy chili chorizo version, beef barbeque, grilled chicken, and pulled pork, served with mild or spicy homemade salsas.

Prices here offer abundant value for flavourful, hearty food (though the tortillas I had weren’t as fresh-tasting as those at Hernande’z or La Taquisa). Choose a six-pack of palm-sized tacos, available in six flavours, for $6. Quesadillas and the traditional hot torta sandwiches are also just $6. Or choose the combination platter of four tortillas and two fillings with a salad for just $8. Puerta Vallarta Amigos also has occasional specials; follow them on Twitter to keep in the loop. I’m practically holding my breath until they offer another special with their spicy mole, a complex and savoury sauce made with Mexican chocolate.

For me, Puerto Vallarta Amigos is a fair-weather lunch destination (open 11 a.m. to 3-ish p.m.), since there is no shelter from the elements and only limited seating. (Of course, some hot spicy food on a cold day might be just what you need!) On a sunny day, it’s fabulous to take your meal down the waterfront, just steps away.

Last note: if you’re looking for a marguerita with your Mexican meal, Cafe Mexico (www.cafemexico.com) at 1425 Store Street is still the place for you. None of the three taquerias above serve this refreshing salt-rimmed lime-and-tequila cocktail.